Everest

Over the past 2 months, and really over the past 2 years, I have read numerous blogs about how to "fix" Everest. I've even written a couple of my own. I just read a great piece (unpublished) by accomplished mountaineer Brad Johnson (author of Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca - http://peaksandplaces.com/purchase_book.htm), who just summited Everest for the first time. He accurately wrote that this year, with perfect weather, many teams got away with what could be fatal mistakes up high.

Summit Push....Day 4. Holding! There was no summit attempt last night. At 2am, I spoke to Adrian on the radio....the winds at the South Col were in excess of 80km/h and on the summit ridge they were well over 100km/h. Adrian decided to wait until 4am to see if there was any improvement, but at 0445 the winds were the same or stronger and almost all of the teams that had left earlier in the night had been forced to turn around before the summit because of the extreme conditions. Our team stayed put in their tents at the South Col, thus conserving their energy.

Summit Push: Day 3.

First things first:

Adrian and Sergey are well on their way to the South Col, they are both feeling well and climbing well.
The Sherpa are ahead of them, also doing well; they have arrived at a very windy South Col to get the tents up and ready for the others to arrive.

Summit Push: Day 1

A 4am start is never anyone's favorite...but it got Adrian and Sergey in to camp 2 before the oppressive heat of the Western Cwm took hold. They both made it to camp in good spirits, despite having to negotiate the Ice Fall in ski boots and with their skis on their packs.

I have spoken to them both on the radio and they are well and looking forward to having the rest of the day to recover.

On The Move....

We just got news from our phenom rope fixing sherpa team that they have reached the summit of Mt. Everest. It is a good day, with sun and moderate winds. This means the team has not only been able to summit and string ropes, but has also been improving anchors, and looking at ways to lessen traffic jams on the difficult sections of the route. It's a great day! 

Everest, in all its intensity and boredom, to me often feels like a stimulant-enhanced version of "normal" life at home. This heightened intensity of emotional and physical existence is not necessarily a good thing, but I am sure this is why many of us return year after year. It is an addictive way to exist.

After having led more than 30 expeditions and treks in Nepal over the past 15 years, I think I can finally claim Nepal as my second home. It's not all the equipment I store here that makes it a home (although I do have 30 or so duffle bags and blue barrels of gear stashed in my friend's houses here in Kathmandu and in the Khumbu). Nor is it my familiarity with the streets, markets, and alleyways that make up the maze of a city that is Kathmandu. Nepal is a home to me because of the friends and family I have here. I have shared so many of the most powerful moments of my life here in Nepal.

May 5, 2011 - Everest Summit * May 20, 2011 - Everest Summit * May 26, 2011 - Lhotse Summit