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Pisco and Chopicalqui
The Cordillera Blanca (translated as The White Mountain Chain) mountains of Peru have been a focus of alpinists from around the world since the 1960’s. This tightly packed chain offers a huge variety of terrain, including 22,000 foot (6,700 meter) massifs like Huascaran, steep fluted ice faces like those of Alpamayo, and technical rock and mixed faces like those of Cayesh. It also offers many peaks that are ideal for building on basic high altitude mountaineering skills, all sitting above lush grassy valleys fed by clear alpine lakes.
On this expedition we will climb two of those intermediate peaks. Pisco (18,972 feet/5,783 meters) and Chopicalqui (20,848 feet/6,354 meters) are perfect next steps for climbers who have climbed glaciated peaks such as those in the USA, Mexico, Ecuador, or the Alps and want to continue building their skills and attempt a bigger peak. Our itinerary allows for plenty of time for acclimatization. This time is also ideal for skills seminars. Chopicalqui requires that each team-member feels comfortable camping in a harsh environment on an active glacier, carrying a large pack on crevassed terrain, and climbing fifty degree plus ice slopes on summit day. Our goal on Pisco is to ensure each climber has the time to build these skills, to acclimatize, and to summit one of the most beautiful peaks in Peru.
Both of these peaks require at least two camps above Base Camp before our attempt on the summit. This is very different from the day trips we often do in the USA or the huts we use in the Alps or Ecuador making Peru an ideal step toward bigger Himalayan peaks or the Seven Summits. You will become very familiar with expedition living by the end of this 19 day expedition. You will also have experienced the best of the Andes. The people of Peru are incredibly open and friendly, and we will spend time traveling through their farming communities on the way to the mountains. We will work with a local staff of friends who will be our cooks, camp guardians, and occasional porters, and will provide insight into the culture of the local Quechua people.
Our Pisco and Chopicalqui Expedition will be guided by one or more of Alpenglow’s AMGA certified lead guides. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) certification is the highest possible training available to guides, and only the most experienced and dedicated attain it. Our lead guides have also traveled and climbed extensively in South America and know the Peruvian Andes intimately. Their knowledge of Andean culture as well as the mountains, combined with their passion for teaching others to become competent mountaineers, guarantees that your experience will be one to remember!
We combine our guides’ experience with the local expertise of our close friend and expert Peruvian logistics operator, Alfredo Ibarra. An incredible cook, waking up each morning to Alfredo’s smile, hot coffee, and incredible pancakes will be a highlight of your trip. And our small team size and low ratio of climbers to guides (3:1) ensures that you stay healthy and strong, and are able to enjoy each component of your experience.
Day 1:
Arrive in Lima between 6pm and midnight. (Wednesday)
Day 2:
Drive to Huaraz (8 hours) in our private van, where we are based out of a small but beautiful hotel (10,000 feet/3,050 meters).
Day 3:
An acclimatization and organization day in Huaraz.
Day 4:
Drive to Pisco base camp in the Llanganuco valley (12,500 feet/3,810 meters). This 3 hour drive takes us through beautiful farming communities and past the famed Llanganuco lakes.
Day 5:
Carry a load to Cave Camp on Pisco (14,000 feet/4,267 meters) and return to basecamp.
Day 6:
Move to Cave Camp.
Day 7:
Acclimatization day at Cave Camp. Today we review glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills, while our famed Peruvian chef Alfredo brings up a hot lunch from Base Camp.
Day 8:
Climb from Cave Camp to Moraine Camp (16,000 feet/4,877 meters). This climb crosses a challenging rock glacier before climbing steeply into camp in a small sandy basin just below the toe of the glacier.
Day 9 :
Summit Day at 18,872 feet (5,752 meters)! The climb to the summit of Pisco begins on 3rd class rock slabs before stepping onto the glacier. From the toe of the glacier we climb moderate slopes to a saddle on the ridge between Pisco and the Huandoys. As the sun rises we climb steeper exposed slopes crossing frequent crevasses to the final summit bulge. This final slope is often very steep, necessitating excellent crampon and vertical axe technique and a tight belay! After our climb, we pack up high camp and return to Base Camp.
Day 10:
Rest in Base Camp, where we enjoy the best food the backcountry has to offer from our Peruvian cook and good friend Alfredo Ibarra.
Day 11:
Another rest day, with an optional excursion to Laguna 69 (15,500 feet/4,724 meters), one of the most beautiful high altitude lakes in the world.
Day 12:
Leave Base Camp, and ascend to Moraine Camp (16,000 feet/4,877 meters) on Chopicalqui, with the help of one or two high altitude porters.
Day 13:
Rest in Moraine Camp, possibly doing a load carry to high camp.
Day 14:
Move onto the glacier and ascend to high camp, which sits on a flat glacier bench at 18,000 feet (5,486 meters).
Day 15:
Attempt Chopicalqui’s summit. The route ascends a knife-edge ridge for over 2,000 vertical feet (610 meters), with long traverses regularly interrupted by short but steep headwalls. This is a summit to be incredibly proud of. In most years only a few strong teams from around the globe are successful. After the summit we descend to Moraine Camp.
Day 16:
Descend to Base Camp.
Day 17:
Our van picks us up early in the morning and returns us to Huaraz, where we celebrate with hot showers, a great meal, and salsa dancing at the local discotheque.
Day 18:
Leave Huaraz by van. Catch an evening (8pm or later) flight from Lima. (Saturday)
