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Cotopaxi, Cayambe & Chimborazo Expedition – Ecuador
Cotopaxi:
January 9-17, 2010
Cost: $2,450
(land costs, including all meals)
Cayambe & Chimborazo
Extension: Jan. 17-24, 2010
Cost: $1,300
(land costs, including all meals)
Difficulty Level: Introductory
No technical climbing or altitude experience is necessary. It is imperative, however, that you are in good physical shape, and able to hike in rugged terrain for long days.
We are happy to detail physical and technical training programs as
needed to get you ready for our introductory expeditions.
Alpenglow’s guides have been climbing and guiding in Ecuador since 1994, and believe it is
unparalleled for learning the essential skills of high altitude climbing while also exploring a
friendly an interesting culture. On this expedition, our team will attempt to summit Cotopaxi,
the world’s highest active volcano. At 19,347 feet, it is heavily glaciated and remote yet also
easily accessible. This means that instead of taking weeks to reach a peak in Alaska or the
Himalaya, we can successfully arrive, practice skills, acclimatize, and summit all in only a
week!
Our expedition begins in Ecuador’s capital of Quito. The city, surrounded by 4 glaciated peaks,
sits at 9,500 feet, so your acclimatization begins immediately upon arrival. We spend the first
day exploring the old colonial center of Quito and enjoying fantastic food and hospitality. We
continue our acclimatization by taking the local telepherique to 14,000 feet on Rucu
Pinchincha, and then hiking to the 15,700 foot summit. If conditions allow, we will take a
technical knife-edge rock ridge to this summit, practicing our rock technique and the use of
fixed lines.
From there we move to a luxurious refuge high in Cotopaxi National Park. A former chef from
the Galapagos along with a Swiss guide opened the refuge, called Tambopaxi, and there is no
better place to acclimatize while enjoying incredible food and stunning views of Cotopaxi.
Based out of this refuge, we spend an entire day practicing climbing skills on Cotopaxi’s
glacier. This day is essential in becoming a competent team-member on Cotopaxi and other
peaks in the future. We practice crampon and ice axe techniques, traveling on a rope team,
snow and ice anchor placement, and crevasse rescue.
At this point, we are ready for our climb. We move from Tambopaxi to the refuge just below
the glacier. While not as luxurious as Tambopaxi, it significantly shortens our summit push. We
wake at around midnight for the climb, which might take 7-12 hours round trip. The views from
the summit are always stunning, and encompass many of the surrounding volcanoes, as well as
the active crater of Cotopaxi itself.
After descending from the peak, we head to the market town of Otovalo for some much needed
pampering. On Saturdays, the day we will be there, Otovalo holds one of the largest indigenous
markets in South America. The shopping for friends back at home is incredible, as are the
opportunities to explore the local Otovalan culture. And, since we are based out of the garden
paradise of our friends Frank and Margaret, it is also an ideal place to rest and recover from
our climb.
While heading home after Otovalo is one option, we encourage those who have the time to stay
for attempts on Cayambe and Chimborazo. Cayambe, 18,997 feet, sits near the town of
Otovalo and is heavily glaciated. The route is longer than Cotopaxi, and is an excellent place to
continue building comfort with crampon and ice axe techniques. Chimborazo, with a summit at
20,703 feet, is the tallest peak in Ecuador, and considerably taller than any peak in North
America. Its altitude, the length of the summit day, and the technical challenges make it aperfect final peak of the trip, and excellent preparation for big mountains anywhere in the
world.
Our Ecuador Expeditions will be guided by one or more of Alpenglow’s AMGA certified
lead guides. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) certification is the highest possible
training available to guides, and only the most experienced and dedicated attain it. Our lead
guides have traveled and climbed extensively in South America and know the Ecuadorian
volcanoes intimately. Their knowledge of Andean culture as well as the mountains, combined
with their passion for teaching others to become competent mountaineers, guarantees that
your experience will be one to remember!
We combine our guides’ experience with the local expertise of our close friend and expert
Ecuadorian logistics operator, Jaime Avila. Jaime is one of Ecuador’s most respected guides,
and has also guided in Nepal, Peru, Bolivia, and Alaska. His local knowledge (of the mountains,
the markets, and the salsa clubs) will be essential to our experience. And our small team size
and low ratio of climbers to guides (4:1) ensures that you stay healthy and strong, and are able
to enjoy each component of your experience.
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