Difficulty Level: Advanced
Difficulty Level: Climbers should have experience multi-pitch climbing
(rock or ice), be comfortable following grade 4 ice climbs, and
have climbed at altitude (over 15,000 feet).
Alpamayo (19,512 feet) is the gem of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Ever since it was first
climbed in 1951, alpinists have been flocking to attempt its fluted Southwest Face. Many
fledgling high altitude climbers consider this peak a culmination of their early climbing careers.
It has often been named by climbers, magazines, and trekkers, “the most beautiful mountain in
the world”. Alpamayo deserves these accolades. Summit day consists of 1,500 feet of perfect
two-tooled ice and neve (Styrofoam-like snow) climbing on a flawless fluted face. You
know you are close to reaching the top when you begin to see light through the face from the
other side. And on a good year, you can actually top out on the summit ridge, with one foot
dangling down each of its almost vertical faces.
Getting to this point requires hard work and solid mountaineering and ice climbing skills.
Before reaching the famed summit face we must approach over 25 kilometers, place two lower camps
and carry heavy packs filled with climbing equipment and food over 4,000 feet of
moraine, scree, and steep glaciated terrain. Alpamayo is the perfect place to integrate light
alpine climbing techniques into your bag of tricks. It is ideal for combining previous high
altitude climbing experience with steep ice climbing skills. When you leave Alpamayo you
should feel ready to be a competent team-member on big alpine peaks around the world.
And there is an added bonus to this expedition. Alpamayo’s col camp is also an ideal high camp
to attempt Quitaraju (19,820 feet). Quitaraju’s North Face hosts another long alpine two-tool
ice and neve route. While it is not quite as steep as Alpamayo, it is longer, boasting over 12
rope-lengths of ice climbing to its summit. After climbing Alpamayo, we should have the
efficiency necessary to complete this long route in a single push.
Our Alpamayo and Quitaraju Expedition will be guided by one or more of Alpenglow’s
AMGA certified lead guides. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) certification is the
highest possible training available to guides, and only the most experienced and dedicated
attain it. Our lead guides have also traveled and climbed extensively in South America and
know the Peruvian Andes intimately. Their knowledge of Andean culture as well as the
mountains, combined with their passion for teaching others to become competent
mountaineers, guarantees that your experience will be one to remember!
We combine our guides’ experience with the local expertise of our close friend, expert
Peruvian logistics operator and incredible cook, Alfredo Ibarra. A highlight of your trip will be waking up each morning to
Alfredo’s smile, hot coffee, and tasty pancakes. Our small
team size and low ratio of climbers to guides (2:1) ensures that you stay healthy and strong,
and are able to enjoy each component of your experience.
