Difficulty Level: Difficult Intermediate
Prior roped climbing, cramponing, and ice axe skills are required.
Experience at altitude (over 15,000 feet) is highly recommended.
The Cordillera Blanca (translated as The White Mountain Chain) mountains of Peru have been a focus of strong alpinists from around the world since the 1960’s. This tightly packed chain offers a huge variety of terrain, including 22,000 foot massifs like Huascaran, steep fluted ice faces like those of Alpamayo, and technical rock and mixed faces like those of Cayesh. It also offers many peaks that are ideal for building on basic high altitude mountaineering skills, all
sitting above lush grassy valleys fed by clear alpine lakes.
On this expedition we will climb two of those intermediate peaks. Pisco (18,972 feet) and
Chopicalqui (20,848 feet) are perfect next steps for climbers who have climbed glaciated peaks
such as those in the USA, Mexico, Ecuador, or the Alps and want to continue building their skills
and attempt a bigger peak. Our itinerary allows for plenty of time for acclimatization. This
time is also ideal for skills seminars. Chopicalqui requires that each team-member feels
comfortable camping in a harsh environment on an active glacier, carrying a large pack on
crevassed terrain, and climbing fifty degree plus ice slopes on summit day. Our goal on Pisco is
to ensure each climber has the time to build these skills, to acclimatize, and to summit one of
the most beautiful peaks in Peru.
Both of these peaks require at least two camps above Base Camp before our attempt on the
summit. This is very different from the day trips we often do in the USA or the huts we use in
the Alps or Ecuador making Peru an ideal step toward bigger Himalayan peaks or
the Seven Summits. You will become very familiar with expedition living by the end of this 19
day expedition. You will also have experienced the best of the Andes. The people of Peru are
incredibly open and friendly, and we will spend time traveling through their farming
communities on the way to the mountains. We will work with a local staff of friends who will
be our cooks, camp guardians, and occasional porters, and will provide insight into the culture
of the local Quechua people.
Our Pisco and Chopicalqui Expedition will be guided by one or more of Alpenglow’s
AMGA certified lead guides. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) certification is the
highest possible training available to guides, and only the most experienced and dedicated
attain it. Our lead guides have also traveled and climbed extensively in South America and
know the Peruvian Andes intimately. Their knowledge of Andean culture as well as the
mountains, combined with their passion for teaching others to become competent
mountaineers, guarantees that your experience will be one to remember!
We combine our guides’ experience with the local expertise of our close friend and expert
Peruvian logistics operator, Alfredo Ibarra. An incredible cook, waking up each morning to
Alfredo’s smile, hot coffee, and incredible pancakes will be a highlight of your trip. And our
small team size and low ratio of climbers to guides (3:1) ensures that you stay healthy and
strong, and are able to enjoy each component of your experience.
