Depart the USA for Mendoza, usually flying via Santiago, Chile. (Saturday)

Arrive into Mendoza, Argentina. This small city is famous for its wineries and traditional barbeque and steaks. We spend the day exploring the town and preparing for our climb. (Sunday)

Leave Mendoza by private van for the town of Penitentes (8,000 feet). Penitentes sits at the entrance to the valleys leading into Aconcagua. We spend our last night in town in a comfortable local hotel.

After a short drive to Puenta de Vacas (7,600 feet) we organize our mules and begin the 3 day trek to Base Camp. Our approach up the Vacas Valley is less traveled than the normal approach, and also much greener. We hike four to five hours to our first camp at Las Lenas (9,000 feet). Burros carry most of our gear for the trek in, so we will be able to hike with light packs and enjoy the stunning scenery.

Today we get our first stunning views of Aconcagua and the Polish glacier as we hike 11 miles to our camp at Casa de Piedras, 10,600 feet.

After a challenging day of steep hiking up the Relinchos Valley we arrive into Plaza Argentina, where we set our Base Camp. This will be home for a few days, so we take our time to find the perfect spot at the base of the moraine, 13,800 feet.

Today we rest and allow our bodies to continue the important process of acclimatization. We enjoy fantastic food from our local cook, and take some short walks to enjoy the views and stretch sore muscles from the trek in.

Carry to Camp I. Our first day on the mountain proper is truly unique. We move over the moraine and then through a field of tall penitentes (fins of ice that can be over 3 meters tall, formed by the intense sun) on our way to our campsite at 16,000 feet. After caching our gear, we return to Base Camp for the night.

Additional rest day in Base Camp. This process of carrying loads, then resting, then moving up is essential for a comfortable acclimatization process and an enjoyable and successful climb.

Move to Camp I, 16,000 feet.

Carry to Camp II. Six or so hours of hiking takes us to the base of the Polish Glacier at 19,300 feet. This is a long move, and can be broken with an interim camp if necessary. After caching gear we return to Camp I.

Rest in Camp I.

Move to Camp II, 19,300 feet.

Rest in Camp II.

Today we move to our final camp, near Camp Independencia. This is where we join the Normal route. The day is not difficult, but can provide fantastic climbing on 30 degree slopes as we traverse below the Polish glacier. We do not make multiple carries to this final camp, so our packs will be heavy. Reaching Camp III (20,500 feet) we begin resting and preparing for our summit bid.

Extra Day to be utilized as needed for weather or altitude issues.

Extra Day to be taken as needed for weather or altitude issues.

Extra Day to be taken as needed for weather or altitude issues.

Summit Day! Leaving camp before dawn, we move up past the ruins of Refugio Independencia on the exposed North Ridge. We then traverse the West Face to the Canaleta, perhaps the physical and mental crux of the entire route. The Canaleta is 1,000 vertical feet of scree and sand and must be climbed slowly but consistently. Our reward is joining the easy Guanacos Ridge, which boast stunning views in every direction and leads us upward from the lower south summit to the north summit, at 22,841 feet the highest point in the Western hemisphere. The views of the surrounding Andes, the desert plains, out to the Pacific, and of the 9,000 South Face are mind-boggling. A 10-12 hour round trip day finds us back in high camp, rehydrating and resting.

We descend the Normal Route to Plaza de Mulas basecamp (13,800 feet), where our cook and mules meet us. While we will see more people on our descent, returning by the normal route means we will experience two different sides of Aconcagua.

Load the mules and trek 6 to 7 hours out the Horcones Valley to the trailhead and our van. While we will be tired from the climb, our bodies will be ready for the extra oxygen and fantastic food to be found by returning to Penitentes. After much needed showers, we enjoy a celebration dinner of traditional asada (barbeque). We spend the night in our hotel in Penitentes.

After a leisurely morning, return to Mendoza to catch evening flights from Mendoza to your home, usually via Santiago, Chile. (Saturday)

Arrive home. (Sunday)